If you want to escape from the city and spend a wild night in the tranquillity of the high mountains, then the high-altitude lakes of the Sierra Nevada’s Siete Lagunas, nestled in a wild and rugged valley between the massive peaks of Mulhacén and Alcazaba, are a distinct and highly recommended option.
This remarkable place is accessible from the Sierra Nevada’s highest village of Trevélez and the route, up and back, is doable as a long day hike (8 or 9 hours for experienced hikers), but I would recommend that you take camping gear and spend the night amongst the mountains and savour the beauty of these unique Alpine lakes.
The starting point of the hike, Trevélez, is a spectacular destination in itself, tucked into a lush forested valleys of the Sierra Nevada’s sunny south facing slopes. Lovely views of the slightly lower Alpujarras are to be had on the drive in from Lanjarón and Orgiva. From the trailhead in Travélez’s ‘Barrio Medio’, the route sets off following a cobbled path past small farms and grazing areas, heading north. It’s a relatively tranquil start to the trail, but it takes a sharp turn to the west, pushing up and out of the valley on a steep, rough and fairly unrelenting trail. The trail turns back again to the northerly direction before arriving at the trail’s approximate half way point – the small, rough refuge of La Campiñuela. The views of the mountains here are stark but lovely. Also, be aware that apart from some small stands of pine, there’s very little shelter here and no water – at least in the summer- on the first half of the hike.
On arrival in La Campiñuela the trail levels out once more, there’s water, provided by a couple of bubbling crystal clear streams just behind the shelter, and the lush green grass provides plenty to munch on for the contented looking cows that make this spot their home. Mulhacén and Alcazaba are now visible to the North West, and an obvious trail now leads you into the deep valley, following the stream of the Rio Culo Perro (the humorously named ‘Dog’s Arse River’). You’re heading towards the striking and obvious waterfall, Chorreras Negras, that tumbles in spectacular fashion from the lip of Laguna Hondera, the largest of the Siete Lagunas. It’s fairly easy going until the steep ground below the waterfall, when you have to start picking your way up the boulder field to scramble up to Laguna Hondera, just to the right of the waterfall’s main cascade. I have to say that this is my favourite bit of the hike, with a very Alpine feel. High mountain ridges loom over you to your left, the cascades beauty is unquestionable and the whole scene has a kind of epic ‘Lord of the Rings’ feel!
Ibex are common here, on the rocky crags and around Laguna Hondera above. On reaching the top of the waterfall, you’re offered a wonderful reward with a view of the mirrored waters of the Laguna Hondera reflecting the towering peaks of Mulhacén to the left and Alcazaba, to the right of the lake. The slightly damp, grassy peat land around the lake makes a good camp site. Please respect the environment here! Take all your rubbish with you, if you need the toilet, head far away from the lake to avoid contaminating the water and set no open fires. Here you could easily spend a couple of days, exploring the trails up to the other lakes and summiting the peaks of the two marvellous mountains around you. In the evening large herds of Ibex come to graze around the lakes, and here, at 3000m the air and the nights are magnificently clear and silent.
I spent the night here during a full moon and our lunar brother stared down at us with an almost mythical clarity. There’s so little light pollution here! It’s really something to savour. Be prepared for cold and challenging conditions, even in the summer. Large patches of snow can cloak the mountains throughout the year, so expect nights even in summer to drop to freezing or below.
When you feel the need to return to ‘Civilization’ you can either retrace you steps or follow a more Southerly route via the Alto del Chorrillo and Mirador de Traveléz for added variety. Enjoy!